I really like my first attempt at making an Altoid box painter's tin. With 15 colors it has enough color variety so that I don't have to constantly double-dip the brush tip in multiple colors to get the variety I need. Double-, triple-dipping muddies the tip, especially because the tip isn't cleansed in water frequently. The one downside of this set however is because I used really cheap paint (why not? needed to learn and not waste more expensive paints till I get technique). I found the colors didn't blend well but stayed separate. It's not really important because I'm using a small waterbrush instead of the broad sweeps of a typical paintbrush which require more color blending, but still, I do notice a difference between my inexpensive Korean set of Alpha paints and the dollar-store cheapies I used in the tin. Since a friend gave me a new set of 18 watercolors (Reeves, also cheap but figured they'd be better than the cheapies in the tin), thought I'd make another tin.
Pictured: original Altoid tin with dollar-store cheapie paints (adequate but colors stay separate when attempting to blend)
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| 4"x6" mixed media paper for marker, pen and ink, and watercolor "Bluebirds & Flowers" |
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| "Bluebirds & Flowers" |
Prepping the Reeve Watercolors
Before I squirted colors from the tubes into the new 21-hole palette made from Fimo, I first made a color grid (saw this online somewhere) to check out the transparency and opacity of the new (Reeves) watercolors.
Made a five-columned grid, basically each color name followed by a long swatch of color. However, before (and then after) the color was painted, a vertical stripe of first oil-based marker and water-based marker were painted down the sheet. The idea is to test and see how transparent or opaque each of the colors are both before and after the colors are used. Watercolors are thought all to be transparent but this is not so, and colors differ (sometimes significantly) by brand name.
Then in the wider last column, a wet brush was used to scrub a bit at the painted colors to see if the colors could be lifted off or if (and how much) they stained. These Reeves colors do not lift off but do stain quite noticeably. I noticed two other downsides: like the dollar-store cheapies, the Reeves don't blend well, and, when dry, their color is noticeably granular, especially in large swatches. Sadly, after all this work of testing, I've decided not to use the Reeves in my new 21-reservoir Altoid tin. From a very old set of Korean Alpha, I made my new Altoid paint tin. Though quite cheap, the Alphas flow better, blend fairly nicely, and most can be somewhat lifted off the paper. A few colors from the Reeves (like flesh tone, crimson, burnt umber and payne's gray -- all somewhat opaque colors) will supplement the 18-color Alphas to fill in the 21-hole paint reservoirs. I'm omitting the white as many watercolorists carry a tube of white gouache for painting quick contrasting highlights.
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| "testing" transparency and opacity of Reeves watercolors |
Making the Altoid Paint-tin
This time I made two tins at the same time, the second one is for the professional-grade paint ... when I finally make the investment.
To make the uniformly spaced holes, mom gave me the tip of using a hole-punched grid. And then looking around the kitchen she suggested using the base-end of the walnut-cracker for systematically imprinting holes in the Fimo clay. Wow! Both ideas worked fabulously! Then after shaping and baking the Fimo, I sprayed one with white rust-proof outdoor paint we had on hand. I'll wait to spray the other with white ceramic paint since that's the recommended paint and I'm not needing the second tin for a while.
Finished Altoid Tin
My 21-reservoir Altoid tin, and a second one almost ready too. They look good against my handmade hanji-art pen box.
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