24-watercolor Mixing Chart: Shinhan SWC and M. Graham

So I've spent a few hours "learning" my first professional watercolor palette set. The set is a combination of M. Graham and SWC -- the SWC ShinHan Watercolor Professional, not to be confused with tubes that read just ShinHan Watercolor Professional. Yes, confusing! Pictures below to exemplify the difference. 

ShinHan, a popular Korean brand of watercolor (and other art materials). I realize that both SWC and PWC are now marketed by ShinHan with PWC short for Profession Water Color, but I've never seen PWC in any of the big art stores here in Korea but SWC is now widely sold. The ShinHan Watercolors Professional (ex. Bordeaux and Red Violet above) have been sold for years, and only in the past year or two (as I'm aware) the SWC has hit the market as the professional grade. Shami, another ShinHan watercolor, is the kiddie-student grade.

my first professional watercolor palette
Combination of 11 M. Graham, 11 SWC ShinHan Watercolor Professionals, and 2 ShinHan Watercolor Professionals

Hansa Yellow (MG), Azo Yellow (MG), Indian Yellow (SWC), Raw Sienna (SWC), Azo Orange (MG), Scarlet Pyrrol (MG), Pyrrole Red (SWC), Quinacridone Red (SWC), Crimson Lake (SWC), Bordeaux (ShinHan), Red Violet (ShinHan), Cobalt Light Violet (SWC), Ultramarine Blue (MG), Cerulean Blue Hue (SWC), Peacock Blue (SWC), Phthalo Blue (MG). Phthalo Green (MG), Terre Verte Yellow Shade (SWC), Azo Green (MG), Transparent Red Iron Oxide (SWC), Burnt Umber (SWC), Umber (SWC), Sepia (MG), Payne's Gray (MG)
M. Graham (x11), SWC ShinHan Watercolor Professional (x11), and ShinHan Watercolor Profession (x2) 

Analysis of the Chart and My Color Choices

Wow, did I learn a lot about color combinations from making this chart: which colors are likely to muddy when combined, which ones become opaque, which are heavily or lightly pigmented, or redundant colors, and which ones become beautiful rich blacks. I'm already figuring out what my ultimate preferred color palette will be...

The 2 ShinHan colors aren't heavily pigmented but wow do they lay color on the paper well and have rich smooth texture. It'll be hard replacing them because they're so enjoyable to use. The downside for them is I end up using a lot of paint and made significant holes in the palette cubes. In the long-run it'll be cheaper to use a more pigmented paint. I chose those colors, however, because they are transparent (my whole palette is except the semi-transparent Payne's Gray and Sepia) and because I liked how they completed my range of palette colors.

Just an aside, ShinHan watercolors, though student grade watercolor, are quite brilliant and very smooth and rich. Alpha, another old watercolor brand here Korea and also student grade, is quite inferior (my opinion) -- colors don't lay down smoothly, not as rich, perhaps chalky. I don't enjoy painting with them at all. Mission is a new Korean watercolor brand that has recently come onto the market. I haven't used them, but they are said online to be quite beautiful. I'd buy a set of them, but for two reasons: many fugitive colors, and Mission sets are heavy into reds but weak in the blues and greens. I'm interested in painting animals, not floral arrangements so they don't suit me.

I really like all of the SWC paints that I chose, except one -- Cobalt Light Violet. While it's a very beautiful color, it isn't heavily pigmented at all and doesn't lay down smoothly on the paper. Kind of streaky, in fact. Other colors easily over-power it, which is not a problem really, it's just streaky. There is only one other weakly pigmented color, also a SWC color: Terre Verte (Yellow Shade), and I won't be replacing it because I absolutely love it! Gorgeous soft color that when combined with some other colors becomes opaque. Interesting effect rather than annoying. I really dug my brush into this color and had to refill the paint cube while with other cubes I was barely skimming the top, but I'll definitely be keeping this color in my palette! Combines beautifully with almost every color in my palette too!

The M. Graham paints are glorious, and most richly pigmented, even more than the SWC paints. The only bone I have about M. Graham is that they are rather runny. I've noticed that in the past couple of days when the weather has gotten much cooler -- in the 60s and low 70s -- the paints have finally made a film on the surface. Finally, after many many days of leaving my palette open! I don't think I'll keep buying M. Graham because I use my paints also in an Altoid tin for on-the-go. My goodness is that tin a mess! Not much fun painting when colors are swimming into each other.

Changes to My Future (Perfect) Palette

Not sure about the "perfect" palette yet, but I think the future paints I buy, if I can't find the transparent colors I want with SWC watercolors, are Daniel Smith. D.S. has a huge range of colors (too many to choose from ... having trouble!) and they aren't messy for plein air painting. They aren't available here in Korea to my knowledge, which is fine as name brand art stuff has a stiff mark-up in Korea. I'll order them off either Dick Blick or Jerry's Artarama for discounted price, and have them sent to an American address for free shipping and handling. That way, nice paints then become affordable paints.

Necessary changes:

• Bordeaux (ShinHan) - redundant color with SWC Crimson Lake (remove)
• Red Violet (ShinHan) - lovely but not highly pigmented; replace with Quin Magenta (D.S.)
• Cerulean Blue Hue (SWC) & Peacock Blue (SWC) - both PB 15:3 as is Phthalo Blue (M.G.) and nearly identical when mixed; remove both and replace with Manganese Blue Hue (D.S.) 
• Burnt Umber (SWC) and Red Iron Oxide (M.G.) - too similar; replace Burnt Umber with Bronzite Genuine (D.S.)

Other changes:

• Hansa Yellow (M.G.) and Azo Yellow (SWC) are quite similar; replace Hansa Yellow with Lemon Yellow (D.S.)
• Quinacridone Gold (D.S.) is so amazingly beautiful; replace Indian Yellow (SWC) with Quin Gold
• Goethe (Brown Ocher) Genuine (D.S.) is granulating and Raw Sienna (SWC) is not; replace Raw Sienna with Goethe Genuine (semi-transparent) or Yavapai (natural iron oxide) Genuine (transparent and a bit lighter, more like a sand color)
• Mayan Blue Genuine (D.S.) add; it's incredibly rich and 4 blues in a 24-color palette seems appropriate
• Cobalt Light Violet (SWC) just doesn't lay down smoothly; replace with perhaps Wisteria (D.S., semi-transparent though and non-granulating) or Ultramarine Red (D.S., transparent but granulating)